LOOKING AFTER YOUR WATCH
LOOKING AFTER YOUR WATCH - THE VITAL POINTS TO KEEP IN MIND
Basic Guidelines for Watch Care
This guide answers some frequently asked questions about watches and their maintenance. Some topics, like how often to service a watch or whether it’s safe to shower with one, are often debated. The following guidelines should help you avoid common pitfalls.
Winding a Mechanical Watch
Before you begin, ensure it's a mechanical watch. If the dial says Quartz, Eco-Drive, or Kinetic, it’s not a manual winding or automatic watch. If your Quartz watch has stopped, a battery replacement from a reputable jeweler or watch shop is needed to maintain water resistance. Military watches may be quartz even if not indicated on the dial. To check, look for a battery hatch on the back or observe the second-hand movement. Quartz watches tick in one-second increments, while mechanical movements have a smooth sweep.
If you're certain the watch is mechanical, follow these steps to wind it:
- Check the Crown: If the watch has a screw-down crown, unscrew it. If it begins to screw back in, gently pull it out one stop. For a normal crown, wind the watch directly.
- Wind the Watch: Turn the crown clockwise 40-50 times. Hold the watch in your left hand, pinching the crown between your right thumb and forefinger, and rotate it clockwise (away from you). Wind slowly and consistently.
- Feel for Resistance: Wind until you feel increased resistance. Manual watches show resistance, while automatic watches may not. The number of turns varies by movement, usually 20-50 revolutions.
- Stop Winding: Once you feel resistance, stop. Some experts recommend winding the crown counterclockwise 5-6 times to redistribute lubricant and relieve strain on the watch.
To ensure consistent power, wind your manual watch at the same time each day, preferably in the morning. Be cautious when fully winding the watch to avoid damaging the mainspring.
Note: Always take off the watch while winding to prevent unnecessary strain on the winding stem.
Automatic Watches
Some self-winding mechanical watches (automatics) can also be wound manually. MWC watches support this feature, and you should check your documentation for other brands. Wind the watch daily to maintain an adequate power reserve. If the watch has stopped, give it a full manual wind to jump-start it.
There is a common misconception that automatic watches never need winding. If unworn for a day, the watch may approach the end of its power reserve. A sedentary lifestyle may also reduce the watch's ability to self-wind, so occasional manual winding may be necessary.
Adjusting the Strap or Bracelet
For bracelets, adjustment is often possible at the clasp via a spring-loaded pin. Use a small tool, such as a paperclip, to release and reposition the pin. For link adjustments, you may need small screwdrivers, or you can seek professional help. For spring pins, use a vice and cloth to prevent scratches and follow the direction of arrows on the underside of the links.
NATO and leather straps may require professional help or a punch tool for proper adjustment.
Types of Strap Pins
- Spring Bars/Pins: Easy to fit with different straps, but care is needed to avoid dislodging.
- Screw Pins: Combine the ease of spring bars with added strength. Use Threadlock to prevent loosening.
- Fixed Solid Strap Bars: Used in military models for added security. These restrict use to one-piece straps.
Water Resistance
Water resistance depends on the thickness and material of the case, the back, and the crown. Here’s a quick breakdown of water resistance ratings:
- 30 meters (100 feet/3atm): Splash proof, not for swimming.
- 50 meters (165 feet/5atm): Suitable for shallow swimming.
- 100 meters (330 feet/10atm): Suitable for swimming and snorkeling.
- 150 meters (500 feet/15atm): Suitable for snorkeling.
- 200 meters (660 feet/20atm): Suitable for sports diving.
- 300 meters (1000 feet/30atm): Suitable for scuba diving.
- 500-1000 meters (1500-3000 feet/50-100atm): For professional divers and special forces.
Always ensure the crown is screwed down before swimming or diving. Avoid hot showers, saunas, or sudden temperature changes that can cause thermal shock. After exposure to seawater, rinse the watch in fresh water and turn the bezel to remove any debris.
Best Straps for Water Use: Metal, carbon fiber, Kevlar, rubber/silicone, or nylon NATO straps. Leather straps may become unpleasant when frequently wet.
Heat and Sunlight
Avoid rapid temperature changes and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. Extreme heat can affect the lubricants and appearance of the watch. Use common sense and avoid exposing your watch to extreme heat.
Shock Resistance
Although mechanical watches are equipped with shock-absorbing features, avoid sudden impacts or vibrations. Activities like firing heavy firearms can negatively affect the watch.
General Maintenance
For watches rated 50m or higher for water resistance, occasionally clean with a toothbrush around the bracelet, lugs, and case back to remove debris.
Scratched Crystals
- Acrylic Crystals: Can be polished with toothpaste, metal polish, or Polywatch.
- Mineral Glass Crystals: More resistant but may need replacement if scratched.
- Sapphire Crystals: Very hard and rarely scratch or shatter.
Accuracy
Mechanical watches generally vary by +/- 15 seconds per day, while quartz watches are more accurate, usually within +/- 2 seconds per day. Accuracy may fluctuate with activity and wear patterns.
Sweep Second Hand Alignment
Minor misalignment is very common with quartz watches and does not indicate a defect. Unfortunately some people tend to find this aspect very irritating but it arises with quartz watches in general regardless of the price range in our experience even if the alignment is perfect to start with it can potentially drift over time.
Servicing
Service frequency depends on use, especially exposure to water. Divers’ watches used daily should be checked yearly and fully serviced every two years. Less frequently used watches may only need a water resistance check every two years and a full service every five years. For mechanical watches, a service every 3-5 years is a good rule of thumb.
For assistance with service or repair issues—warranty or non-warranty—visit Timepiece Services or contact us directly for support.
